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ment points, position, action, feel, friction of the seat material, etc. 2. Fundamentals. Before leaving the pits to stag- ing, make absolutely sure your bike has enough gas and is warmed up. There’s nothing worse than a bike blubbering on the line. The first basic is seating posi- tion and that depends on the trac- tion available. On Concrete I like the body position I ob- served watching the greatest hole- shot specialist ever and that’s Doug Dubach. Sit like you’re on a horse, basically upright and relaxed with full weight on your butt. On Dirt Body position directly depends on the traction available. High trac- tion dirt means you sit way forward and lean way forward and the less traction, the more you move toward the concrete start seating position. Perfectly Upright I like both feet down to ensure the bike is perfectly upright. Some- times left foot up by the shift lever is dictated by conditions where an instant shift is called for. There’s more to it than just putting your feet down though. You want your toes down and heels up, not flat footed, no matter how tall you are. You also want your toes on the ground exactly below the outside edge of the footpegs (Your toes on the ground should not be forward nor rearward of your pegs)… Feet on Pegs And here’s the important part, get your feet onto the pegs INSTANT- LY, after releasing the clutch, and I’ll tell you why in a bit. After you get the starter’s indi- cation that it’s time to put the bike in gear, do so (I like to use the back of my left heal since I always start in 2nd or 3rd gear [500+cc].) and assume the body position. Elbows up, engine speed to match the trac- tion available, clutch lever released just enough that you feel the edge of engagement. Watch the little pin that holds the gate up and as soon as it flinches, you release the clutch “GET YOUR FEET ON THE PEGS INSTANTLY.” DIRT ILLustrated \\\\\\ Vol. 1 + Issue 5 + Page 88